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Why historical costuming?

As I started working on my first historical costume I wanted to make a record of my progress—mostly for my own reference, but also to inspire me to keep going. Previously I’ve only sewn crafts and baby clothes so sewing for myself was a big 2016/ turning 30 goal. But lo and behold, my birthday came around in October and I had not sewn anything for myself!

Somehow my plan to simply make a dress that I wouldn’t be embarrassed to wear in public turned into 7-part costume… I always felt that a major costume like this was out of my reach. And you know what? It is! But I just decided to go for it because if you don’t move outside your comfort zone you’ll never grow. I’ve loved sketching and wearing historical costumes since I was kid, especially Elizabethan and 18th century gowns. My mom was a great seamstress and indulged me by making lots of great Halloween/dress up outfits over the years, including a colonial calico dress (American Girl Felicity fans out there? haha) and a navy and burgundy taffeta Elizabethan gown. I still kick myself for not trying to learn more from her, but it makes me happy that Mom’s sewing machine is still going strong in my little sewing corner.

Back to this blog—Soon I realized that my Outlander project was spread out over written notes, Pinterest boards, iPhone photos, and Evernote. I wanted to share some photos, but also felt like Facebook wasn’t the best format. Of course, numerous blogs have been very helpful as I learn and research 18th century fashion and construction, and it made sense to start one to have everything in one place. I am self-taught and not an expert, but perhaps this project will be of interest to someone else making the leap!

 

The Outlander Project

I will update the following with links and any changes as I go along.

The Look

Outlander 2014

I’m making a “Claire at Castle Leoch” outfit, and eventually will add outerwear (that fur-trimmed jacket! or a cloak! sigh.). The grand plan is to have one cosplay Claire outfit, and then alternate pieces that are historically accurate, such as a 1750’s jacket with winged cuffs. Of course it would be nice to order 5 or 6 yards of lovely 100% wool tartan from Britex but my accuracy, both to the show and the time period, is affected by my fabric budget. I plan on purchasing wool stockings and have some brown leather shoes that are serviceable, but would like to complete the outfit with proper shoes like the Fraser heels from American Duchess one day. You know, like after I finish sewing everything haha.

outlander-302
Official stills from Outlander-online.com

The Garments

Claire’s teal wool bodice (style actually like late 18th pierrot jacket) – wool or wool blend, TBD

1750’s jacket with winged cuffsnavy cotton twill

Petticoat (worn as skirt)heather brown poly suiting

Petticoat – quilted cotton or maybe silk? TBD

Stomacher – cotton blend damask, cotton broadcloth

Shiftcotton voile

Stays – cotton blend damask, cotton canvas, linen

Bum Pad – cotton

Cloak or riding habit – midnight blue wool coating with a bit of mohair

 

The Patterns

Simplicity 8161 – View B: Bodice, Stomacher, Petticoat 

Simplicity 8162 – All Views: Stays, Shift/Chemise, Bum Pad

J.P. Ryan’s 18th century jackets – View C and/or View A    (I’ll explain why when we get there)



The Materials

I’ll provide more details on each garment, but these are the suppliers I used if you’re not sure where to start. I’m lucky enough to be able to make quick trips to NYC’s Garment District on my lunch break, and very much recommend ordering swatches or shopping in person when you can since colors and texture can be quite misleading online.

Fabric:

Fabric.com, Mood Fabrics, Joann’s, Paron Fabrics*

*I don’t really recommend Joann’s for fabric beyond quilting or kid’s clothing. However, I did find a good looking synthetic that was affordable for the 4yd petticoat—combined with a 60% coupon it was an awesome deal. Also, Paron is now closed after over 70 years of business 😦

I haven’t shopped from these stores yet, but they specialize in historical fabrics:

Renaissance Fabrics, Burnley & Trowbridge, Wm. Booth Draper

Notions: 

Pacific Trimming, M & J Trimming, Home Depot, CorsetMakingSupplies.com

*Pacific Trimming is my go-to for notions, like finding the perfect binding for the stays or a certain color of velcro. Sadly both Pacific and M&J have websites that are not nearly as good their stores. Or maybe part of it is losing the kid-in-a-candy-store feeling from walls and walls of ribbons and lace?

Odds and ends: 

Joann’s, Save-a-thon (pretty sure only in NYC), and my neighborhood hardware store

 

 

**Next up: Getting Started!

 

{Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with any of these companies, I’m only sharing to be helpful!}

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